banana cream pie brioche buns!!
this newsletter is b-a-n-a-n-a-s!
Do you like bananas? I ask, because as far as fruits go, they’re very polarizing (yet another topic to divide us, good grief). Some people eat one, like, every day. For others “it’s a texture thing” or they get weird about peeling them.
The thing about bananas, though? Love them or hate them, they are really interesting.
At least, they are to me. I once spent the better part of a morning yapping all things banana to my bakery co-workers after having watched René Redzepi’s ‘Omnivore’ episode on the topic. Yesterday, I did the same to the bar team at Bravo. Did you know they’re a monoculture? Or that they’re less dense than water, so float? You’ve maybe heard that humans share 50% of their DNA with bananas (which is, well, bananas), but I bet you didn’t know you could use their peels to shine your shoes!!
Another thing about bananas? They are really silly.
Try having a serious conversation with someone while eating a banana and let me know how that goes for you. Predictable or not, we all laugh when someone slips on a peel, and we’ve all used one as a “phone”. There are bananas in pyjamas and banana-mobiles, and don’t forget, “there’s always money in the banana stand.” Even the word itself is silly, and big thanks to Gwen Stefani for drilling its spelling into our collective minds (B-A-N-A-N-A-S!)!
All that being said, I’m sure it will come as no surprise that the recipe I’m giving you here is banana-forward:
banana cream pie brioche buns!!
These little cuties are very similar to Italian maritozzi, but are made with brioche dough (whereas maritozzi dough is typically scented with orange zest and uses oil in place of butter), then filled with a vanilla pudding, fresh banana, and whipped cream, and topped with a slice (or three) of caramelized banana. They aren’t hard to make (some hand skill is required to shape the brioche buns and then to level off the whipped cream), but taste like they are, and will make you go b-a-n-a-n-a-s.
(Sorry, couldn’t resist.)
enjoy!!
banana cream pie brioche buns!!
Before we begin, a quick note: brioche buns are a two day project. Not into it or crunched for time? Don’t have a stand mixer? Buy your buns. Who cares.
I am also not going to tell you how to make whipped cream, for a couple reasons: one, i’m not here to tell you how sweet or not sweet it should be, that’s up to you. And two, how much you need depends on how many buns you decide to fill (I saved 6 and they ended up being brisket sandos).
for the brioche buns:
ingredients:
330g all purpose flour
28g whole milk powder or skim milk powder
35g granulated sugar
8g sea salt
1 tablespoon instant yeast
3 eggs, cold
57g water, cool
142g unsalted butter, at cool room temperature, cut into cubes
method:
Day one:
In a stand mixer with a dough hook, combine all ingredients except the butter. Mix at medium speed for 8-10 minutes until a smooth and stretchy dough forms.
Add one piece of butter at a time, mixing at medium speed until each butter knob is fully incorporated into the dough (this can take 1-2 minutes per addition, don’t rush!). Scrape the bowl occasionally. Once all the butter has been added, continue to knead the dough for another 7-8 minutes–it should be a soft, smooth ball.
Place your dough ball into a greased bowl and let it rise, covered, for an hour at room temperature, then refrigerate the dough overnight.
Day two:
Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
On a clean work surface, turn out the chilled dough and divide it into 12 even pieces (weigh the full dough first, and use your scale for accuracy). Shape each piece into a tight ball by cupping it in your hand and making a circular motion, with the side of your pinky and your thumb gliding along the surface. Place the buns, evenly spaced, across the prepared baking sheets and leave to rise for 2 ½ to 3 hours, lightly covered, until doubled in size and nicely puffy.
Near the end of the rise time, set your oven to 375F. You can gently brush the risen buns with egg wash, if desired (it will give them extra colour and gloss).
Bake the buns for 15 to 20 minutes*, until golden-brown and well-risen. Remove them from the oven, let stand for 5 minutes, then turn them out onto a rack to cool completely.
*Tent with aluminum foil part way through the bake time if they're browning too quickly.
vanilla pudding:
ingredients:
375g whole milk
75g sugar
30g cornstarch
1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
38g butter
method:
Combine ⅔ of the milk with ⅔ of the sugar, plus vanilla and a pinch of salt, in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring gently and frequently until hot, almost boiling.
Combine the cornstarch and the remaining sugar, and whisk in the remaining milk followed by the egg yolk. Mix until completely smooth.
Temper the egg mixture: slowly add the hot milk, whisking constantly. Return the whole mixture to the saucepan and continue cooking, still whisking constantly, until the pudding comes to a boil. Reduce heat slightly and cook for two minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
caramelized bananas:
ingredients:
15g butter
100g brown sugar
2 ripe bananas (not too ripe), cut into ¼ slices
60ml strong coffee or espresso
2oz whiskey (i used Nikka), or coffee
method:
Melt the butter in a large saucepan or skillet, then stir in the brown sugar until dissolved/melted. Add the bananas in a single layer and cook over medium high heat. Do not stir!! When the bananas start to sizzle, carefully add the whiskey or coffee.
Tilt the pan and spoon the caramel over the bananas without disturbing them several times, until they are deeply browned on the underside, about 6-10 minutes depending how ripe your bananas are. Once your bananas are caramelized to your content, remove them from the pan so they don’t get mushy.
assembly time!!
your mise en place:
brioche buns (however many you want to do), cut lengthwise with a serrated knife down the center, keeping the base intact.
vanilla pudding (in a piping bag or can be spooned)
fresh banana, cut into rounds or chopped
whipped cream (see headnote)
caramelized banana rounds!
icing sugar for dusting (optional, but very cute!)
Open each bun and pipe or spoon a generous amount of pudding along the base. top with fresh banana, leaving enough room for the whipped cream (the gap should be about 1 ½ - 2 inches wide).
Pipe or spoon the whipped cream to fill any gaps, overfilling slightly. Run an offset spatula or butter knife along the edge of the bun to level the cream, removing any excess and leaving a clean, flush edge.
Top with caramelized banana rounds and a dusting of icing sugar!